We’re all in the mood to start something new, but not without finishing our current projects. It seems though that when we get closer to the end, it’s almost excruciatingly long and tedious. LaShell found this out last night as she worked for what seemed like ages on a cowl. She even pulled out the ball of yarn after working on it for an hour and a half noticing that it was still very much the same size.
We’re all plugging through though. When the end is near a new project brings us promise of a new challenge. As I’ve discovered with my Pikkuveli sweater. As I’m almost done with the cardagin, the collar seems to go on forever. But, when there’s a little boy who’s promised a new spring coat, taking a break isn’t an option.
If you can spot the misspelled word in this post, email Steven at Steven@yarngarage.com for 10% off your next order.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Now that Valentine’s day is freshly behind we can think out our next project for our needles. Apparently, we’re looking at spring coming, though it’s hard to see when we’re standing behind some pretty large piles of snow. We could probably squeeze in a mitten project or two, maybe a hat, but I’m pretty sure we’re all looking forward to Spring. I know I am.
For this spring time knitting, I’m making my son a beautiful sweater called Pikkuveli designed by Suvi Simola. (You can purchase her pattern on Ravelry) I’m making it entirely from Cascade 220 yarns. For a small child (3-4) you need only about 4 skeins of yarn to make this sweater which has sizes ranging from 12 months to 8 years. For only $27 I’m making a gorgeous sweater that will definitely be a favorite of my son’s.
If you’re interested, Steven (steven at yarngarage dot com) can give you hand with picking out the colors if you need it. Also, if you mention Pikkuveli, you can get 10% off your next order.
Posted by Yarn Garage at 10:29 AM
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Needles: #6 DPNS Set of 4-5
Gauge: 5sts= 1”
Finished Size: 7” (8”) foot circumference
These socks work up quick and literally fly off the needles. Theyʼre perfect for learning sock making on since the number of stitches being worked is significantly less than a finer weight sock. These are also perfect for winter. If your house is as drafty as mine, an extra layer of warmth really helps chase the chill away.
Warning: Other members of your family may want you to knit a pair for them.
Note: Pattern is written for the smaller size with larger size enclosed in parentheses.
Cast On (C.O.) 36 (40) stitches evenly onto needles (If using a set of 5 needles, it will be 9 (10) stitches on each needle, If using a set of 4 it will be 9, 18, 9 (10, 20, 10).
Join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Remember to put in a stitch marker to keep track of your first needle.
Work a K2, P2 (Knit 2 stitches and then Purl 2 stitches) ribbing for 1 1/2” (Or until your desired length, depending on how much of a ribbing you like).
Then switch to straight stockinette stitch (St st) and knit until cuff measures 6” (7”).
The heel is worked back and forth on two of the DPN needles to create a flap. The other stitches of the sock are kept on the other needles for now and will be joined later.
At the beginning of the round, knit across 9 (10) stitches. Keep these on your needle.
Next, on a separate needle slip 18 (20) stitches onto it. These 18 (20) stitches are the stitches for your heel. (If you are working with a set of 4 needles, this needle will already have all the stitches on it.)
The heel is worked over a series of two rows:
Row 1: Bring your yarn to the front as if youʼre going to purl. Slip the first stitch as if you are going to purl it (but donʼt!) and then bring your yarn to the back and knit the rest of your stitches.
Row 2: Bring your yarn to the back as if youʼre going to knit. Slip the first stitch as if you are going to purl it (donʼt!) and then bring you yarn to the front and purl the rest of your stitches
Work these two rows for 18 (20) rows. There will be a nice “Chain” of 9 (10) slipped stitches. You should end on a Purl row. Meaning, the next row to be worked is a Knitted row.
Knit across 11 (12) Stitches. Slip 2 stitches from the left needle to the right as if you are going to knit them. Then, slip them BACK to the left needle and then knit these two stitches together. (This makes a stitch that leans to the left and makes the heel look nice. ) Knit 1 stitch and then turn your work, leaving the rest of the stitches on the left needle unworked.
Next, slip the first stitch to the other needle. (No worry about yarn wrapping, you just slip the stitch this time) Purl across 5 stitches, Purl 2 stitches together, Purl 1 stitch and then turn. You are going to knit the next row.
Row 1: Slip the first stitch, KNIT to the first stitch before the gap. Slip this stitch knit wise to the right needle as well as the stitch after the gap. (Basically youʼre closing this gap by knitting the two stitches together.) Now slip these two stitches back and knit them together. Knit 1 Stitch. Turn work.
Row 2: Slip the first stitch, PURL to the first stitch before the gap. Purl 2 stitches together (closing the gap), Purl 1 stitch. Turn work.
A Note: You will notice now if you look at your work there are two large gaps on your heel stitches. These are very important.
Repeat these two rows until all stitches have been worked. If you happen to end up with enough stitches at the end of your row repeats to only work a Purl 2 together and Knit 2 Together, this is fine. You should have 12 (12) stitches left.
Knit across these 12 (12) stitches.
With your working needle (The needle your using to knit stitches onto) youʼre going to pick up 9 (10) slipped stitches along the side of your heel. Knit them onto the needle holding the heel stitches.
Now you can knit across the remaining stitches that havenʼt been worked. These 18 (20) Stitches are the top of the foot and will be knit plain. If youʼre using only 4 needles, knit all of these stitches onto one needle.
Now, remove your stitch marker. We are going to move the beginning of the round elsewhere. (Trust me :D)
Using a spare needle, pick up 9 (10) slipped stitches along the other side of the heel and knit these. (You should be at the heel turn by now) Now, Knit 6 stitches from the other needle onto this one.
Stitch count should be 48 (52) stitches. If you are using 4 needles your stitch count should be 15, 18, 15 (16, 20, 16) If you are using 5 needles your stitch count should be 15, 9, 9, 15 (16, 10, 10, 16)
You are NOW in the middle of the heel.
Decrease for Gusset:
(Place your marker here, the middle of the heel is going to be the beginning of your round from now on.)
Round 1: Knit to the last 3 stitches of your first needle, Knit 2 stitches together, Knit 1. Knit across the 18 (20) stitches that are the top of your foot. Needle 3 (if using only 4 needles, Needle 4 if using 5 needles) Knit 1, slip 2 stitches as if to knit and then knit these two stitches together. Knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit Repeat these two rounds Until you have 36 (40) stitches. 9, 18, 9 (10, 20, 10)
Knit in St. st until the foot measures 7” (8”) from the back of the heel.
Round 1: At the beginning of the round Knit to last 3 stitches, Knit 2 together, knit 1. Needle 2, Knit 1, Slip 2 stitches, Knit these stitches together. Knit straight to the last 3 stitches on needle 2 (if using 4 needles) or needle 3 (if using 5 needles), Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. One needle 3 (or 4 if using 5 needles) Knit 1 stitch, slip 2 stitches and knit these together. Knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit Repeat these two rounds until there are 16 (20) stitches left.
Then work Round 1 EVERY round until only 8 stitches remain.
Finishing up your sock!
Cut yarn, and thread through a large eyed needle. Thread this yarn through the remaining stitches and draw tightly, closing the toe.
Congratulations, youʼve just made a sock! Now, remember, you have a second one to make. :D
Wear them, enjoy them, flaunt them.
Designed by Teresa Murphy 2010 for use of learning to knit socks.
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Yesterday we were bombarded with a wonderful plethora of smells. From the hand bars made from real Shea butter and natural oils to the yarn! That's right, even the yarn smelled like lavender. We're all looking forward to the snow melting and being able to knit outside. Mmm, I can almost smell the BBQ's being fired up.
These wonderful 100% natural bars came in a variety of scents. If you're interested, stop by the yarn garage soon because they are a favorite amongst the Wednesday night girls. For $12, this bar will not only last a while, it will get rid of your dry scratchy skin. Shea butter acts as a hydrating element that replenishes skin of lost oils. Perfect for those dry knitters hands. Or your ankles, or heels, or heck anything that's suffered from the cold winter air.
We also have the Ravelry edition of SOAK, as well as the kits featuring the logo and of course, Bob the Boston terrier featured on a scarf. Write or stop by the Yarn Garage to ask Steven about this kit.
*Can you find the typo in this blog post? If so, send Steven an email with the word that was mispelled for 20% your next purchase.
Posted by Yarn Garage at 10:22 AM