Classy Sock Pattern
Yarn: Dream in Color: Classy/ Worsted weight/ 250 yards/ 114 grams/ Color: Punky Fuchsia/ 1 Skien
Needles: #6 DPNS Set of 4-5
Gauge: 5sts= 1”
Finished Size: 7” (8”) foot circumference
These socks work up quick and literally fly off the needles. Theyʼre perfect for learning sock making on since the number of stitches being worked is significantly less than a finer weight sock. These are also perfect for winter. If your house is as drafty as mine, an extra layer of warmth really helps chase the chill away.
Warning: Other members of your family may want you to knit a pair for them.
Note: Pattern is written for the smaller size with larger size enclosed in parentheses.
Cuff:
Cast On (C.O.) 36 (40) stitches evenly onto needles (If using a set of 5 needles, it will be 9 (10) stitches on each needle, If using a set of 4 it will be 9, 18, 9 (10, 20, 10).
Join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Remember to put in a stitch marker to keep track of your first needle.
Work a K2, P2 (Knit 2 stitches and then Purl 2 stitches) ribbing for 1 1/2” (Or until your desired length, depending on how much of a ribbing you like).
Then switch to straight stockinette stitch (St st) and knit until cuff measures 6” (7”).
Heel:
The heel is worked back and forth on two of the DPN needles to create a flap. The other stitches of the sock are kept on the other needles for now and will be joined later.
At the beginning of the round, knit across 9 (10) stitches. Keep these on your needle.
Next, on a separate needle slip 18 (20) stitches onto it. These 18 (20) stitches are the stitches for your heel. (If you are working with a set of 4 needles, this needle will already have all the stitches on it.)
The heel is worked over a series of two rows:
Row 1: Bring your yarn to the front as if youʼre going to purl. Slip the first stitch as if you are going to purl it (but donʼt!) and then bring your yarn to the back and knit the rest of your stitches.
Row 2: Bring your yarn to the back as if youʼre going to knit. Slip the first stitch as if you are going to purl it (donʼt!) and then bring you yarn to the front and purl the rest of your stitches
Work these two rows for 18 (20) rows. There will be a nice “Chain” of 9 (10) slipped stitches. You should end on a Purl row. Meaning, the next row to be worked is a Knitted row.
Heel Turn:
Knit across 11 (12) Stitches. Slip 2 stitches from the left needle to the right as if you are going to knit them. Then, slip them BACK to the left needle and then knit these two stitches together. (This makes a stitch that leans to the left and makes the heel look nice. ) Knit 1 stitch and then turn your work, leaving the rest of the stitches on the left needle unworked.
Next, slip the first stitch to the other needle. (No worry about yarn wrapping, you just slip the stitch this time) Purl across 5 stitches, Purl 2 stitches together, Purl 1 stitch and then turn. You are going to knit the next row.
Row 1: Slip the first stitch, KNIT to the first stitch before the gap. Slip this stitch knit wise to the right needle as well as the stitch after the gap. (Basically youʼre closing this gap by knitting the two stitches together.) Now slip these two stitches back and knit them together. Knit 1 Stitch. Turn work.
Row 2: Slip the first stitch, PURL to the first stitch before the gap. Purl 2 stitches together (closing the gap), Purl 1 stitch. Turn work.
A Note: You will notice now if you look at your work there are two large gaps on your heel stitches. These are very important.
Repeat these two rows until all stitches have been worked. If you happen to end up with enough stitches at the end of your row repeats to only work a Purl 2 together and Knit 2 Together, this is fine. You should have 12 (12) stitches left.
Knit across these 12 (12) stitches.
Gusset:
With your working needle (The needle your using to knit stitches onto) youʼre going to pick up 9 (10) slipped stitches along the side of your heel. Knit them onto the needle holding the heel stitches.
Now you can knit across the remaining stitches that havenʼt been worked. These 18 (20) Stitches are the top of the foot and will be knit plain. If youʼre using only 4 needles, knit all of these stitches onto one needle.
Now, remove your stitch marker. We are going to move the beginning of the round elsewhere. (Trust me :D)
Using a spare needle, pick up 9 (10) slipped stitches along the other side of the heel and knit these. (You should be at the heel turn by now) Now, Knit 6 stitches from the other needle onto this one.
Stitch count should be 48 (52) stitches. If you are using 4 needles your stitch count should be 15, 18, 15 (16, 20, 16) If you are using 5 needles your stitch count should be 15, 9, 9, 15 (16, 10, 10, 16)
You are NOW in the middle of the heel.
Decrease for Gusset:
(Place your marker here, the middle of the heel is going to be the beginning of your round from now on.)
Round 1: Knit to the last 3 stitches of your first needle, Knit 2 stitches together, Knit 1. Knit across the 18 (20) stitches that are the top of your foot. Needle 3 (if using only 4 needles, Needle 4 if using 5 needles) Knit 1, slip 2 stitches as if to knit and then knit these two stitches together. Knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit Repeat these two rounds Until you have 36 (40) stitches. 9, 18, 9 (10, 20, 10)
Foot:
Knit in St. st until the foot measures 7” (8”) from the back of the heel.
Toe:
Round 1: At the beginning of the round Knit to last 3 stitches, Knit 2 together, knit 1. Needle 2, Knit 1, Slip 2 stitches, Knit these stitches together. Knit straight to the last 3 stitches on needle 2 (if using 4 needles) or needle 3 (if using 5 needles), Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. One needle 3 (or 4 if using 5 needles) Knit 1 stitch, slip 2 stitches and knit these together. Knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit Repeat these two rounds until there are 16 (20) stitches left.
Then work Round 1 EVERY round until only 8 stitches remain.
Finishing up your sock!
Cut yarn, and thread through a large eyed needle. Thread this yarn through the remaining stitches and draw tightly, closing the toe.
Congratulations, youʼve just made a sock! Now, remember, you have a second one to make. :D
Wear them, enjoy them, flaunt them.
Designed by Teresa Murphy 2010 for use of learning to knit socks.
Needles: #6 DPNS Set of 4-5
Gauge: 5sts= 1”
Finished Size: 7” (8”) foot circumference
These socks work up quick and literally fly off the needles. Theyʼre perfect for learning sock making on since the number of stitches being worked is significantly less than a finer weight sock. These are also perfect for winter. If your house is as drafty as mine, an extra layer of warmth really helps chase the chill away.
Warning: Other members of your family may want you to knit a pair for them.
Note: Pattern is written for the smaller size with larger size enclosed in parentheses.
Cuff:
Cast On (C.O.) 36 (40) stitches evenly onto needles (If using a set of 5 needles, it will be 9 (10) stitches on each needle, If using a set of 4 it will be 9, 18, 9 (10, 20, 10).
Join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Remember to put in a stitch marker to keep track of your first needle.
Work a K2, P2 (Knit 2 stitches and then Purl 2 stitches) ribbing for 1 1/2” (Or until your desired length, depending on how much of a ribbing you like).
Then switch to straight stockinette stitch (St st) and knit until cuff measures 6” (7”).
Heel:
The heel is worked back and forth on two of the DPN needles to create a flap. The other stitches of the sock are kept on the other needles for now and will be joined later.
At the beginning of the round, knit across 9 (10) stitches. Keep these on your needle.
Next, on a separate needle slip 18 (20) stitches onto it. These 18 (20) stitches are the stitches for your heel. (If you are working with a set of 4 needles, this needle will already have all the stitches on it.)
The heel is worked over a series of two rows:
Row 1: Bring your yarn to the front as if youʼre going to purl. Slip the first stitch as if you are going to purl it (but donʼt!) and then bring your yarn to the back and knit the rest of your stitches.
Row 2: Bring your yarn to the back as if youʼre going to knit. Slip the first stitch as if you are going to purl it (donʼt!) and then bring you yarn to the front and purl the rest of your stitches
Work these two rows for 18 (20) rows. There will be a nice “Chain” of 9 (10) slipped stitches. You should end on a Purl row. Meaning, the next row to be worked is a Knitted row.
Heel Turn:
Knit across 11 (12) Stitches. Slip 2 stitches from the left needle to the right as if you are going to knit them. Then, slip them BACK to the left needle and then knit these two stitches together. (This makes a stitch that leans to the left and makes the heel look nice. ) Knit 1 stitch and then turn your work, leaving the rest of the stitches on the left needle unworked.
Next, slip the first stitch to the other needle. (No worry about yarn wrapping, you just slip the stitch this time) Purl across 5 stitches, Purl 2 stitches together, Purl 1 stitch and then turn. You are going to knit the next row.
Row 1: Slip the first stitch, KNIT to the first stitch before the gap. Slip this stitch knit wise to the right needle as well as the stitch after the gap. (Basically youʼre closing this gap by knitting the two stitches together.) Now slip these two stitches back and knit them together. Knit 1 Stitch. Turn work.
Row 2: Slip the first stitch, PURL to the first stitch before the gap. Purl 2 stitches together (closing the gap), Purl 1 stitch. Turn work.
A Note: You will notice now if you look at your work there are two large gaps on your heel stitches. These are very important.
Repeat these two rows until all stitches have been worked. If you happen to end up with enough stitches at the end of your row repeats to only work a Purl 2 together and Knit 2 Together, this is fine. You should have 12 (12) stitches left.
Knit across these 12 (12) stitches.
Gusset:
With your working needle (The needle your using to knit stitches onto) youʼre going to pick up 9 (10) slipped stitches along the side of your heel. Knit them onto the needle holding the heel stitches.
Now you can knit across the remaining stitches that havenʼt been worked. These 18 (20) Stitches are the top of the foot and will be knit plain. If youʼre using only 4 needles, knit all of these stitches onto one needle.
Now, remove your stitch marker. We are going to move the beginning of the round elsewhere. (Trust me :D)
Using a spare needle, pick up 9 (10) slipped stitches along the other side of the heel and knit these. (You should be at the heel turn by now) Now, Knit 6 stitches from the other needle onto this one.
Stitch count should be 48 (52) stitches. If you are using 4 needles your stitch count should be 15, 18, 15 (16, 20, 16) If you are using 5 needles your stitch count should be 15, 9, 9, 15 (16, 10, 10, 16)
You are NOW in the middle of the heel.
Decrease for Gusset:
(Place your marker here, the middle of the heel is going to be the beginning of your round from now on.)
Round 1: Knit to the last 3 stitches of your first needle, Knit 2 stitches together, Knit 1. Knit across the 18 (20) stitches that are the top of your foot. Needle 3 (if using only 4 needles, Needle 4 if using 5 needles) Knit 1, slip 2 stitches as if to knit and then knit these two stitches together. Knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit Repeat these two rounds Until you have 36 (40) stitches. 9, 18, 9 (10, 20, 10)
Foot:
Knit in St. st until the foot measures 7” (8”) from the back of the heel.
Toe:
Round 1: At the beginning of the round Knit to last 3 stitches, Knit 2 together, knit 1. Needle 2, Knit 1, Slip 2 stitches, Knit these stitches together. Knit straight to the last 3 stitches on needle 2 (if using 4 needles) or needle 3 (if using 5 needles), Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. One needle 3 (or 4 if using 5 needles) Knit 1 stitch, slip 2 stitches and knit these together. Knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit Repeat these two rounds until there are 16 (20) stitches left.
Then work Round 1 EVERY round until only 8 stitches remain.
Finishing up your sock!
Cut yarn, and thread through a large eyed needle. Thread this yarn through the remaining stitches and draw tightly, closing the toe.
Congratulations, youʼve just made a sock! Now, remember, you have a second one to make. :D
Wear them, enjoy them, flaunt them.
Designed by Teresa Murphy 2010 for use of learning to knit socks.
9 comments:
Hi
Thanks heaps for this post - I have just knitted my first socks ever from your pattern and they have turned out fantastic !! Love your site Thanks again
Hi -thanks for the pattern. A bulkier silk and bamboo yarn worked much better using about 20! less knitting stitches than called for using much thinner yarn. Just a brief comment with the heel turn, maybe take out the warning sentence at the end of the paragraph that we will be knitting the next row. It can be taken for knitting the next row before getting to the next instruction.
I just finished my first sock!!! I'm so excited!.....it's something I've always wanted to do but thought it would be so difficult. It was not hard and was lots of fun. Thank you!!
I wanted a sock pattern that used worsted wool yarn. This is not a good pattern. Turning the heel is written terribly. It should tell you how many stitches to work, and then turn. Not work gaps. That's not clear. I have had a real good pattern from Family Circle Easy Knitting years ago which I am trying to locate, and it is very clear. I would not use this Classy Sock pattern as it is not written very well.
" Slip 2 stitches from the left needle to the right as if you are going to knit them. Then, slip them BACK to the left needle and then knit these two stitches together."
Ok, I don't understand this part at all...What is the point of slipping them off and on? I could just knit them together right away?I am missing the point on HOW you manage to get a stitch, that leans to the left. When I simply knit 2 of them together, it does not lean left, but right for me...
Maybe I have to knit 2 of them together on right side? Basically, slip them on right side and then as I am slipping them to left, I pull one through another, knitting them in to one stich?
COnfused:S
It sets your st in a different order so when you knit them together.. there will be no hole
"I wanted a sock pattern that used worsted wool yarn. This is not a good pattern. Turning the heel is written terribly. It should tell you how many stitches to work, and then turn. Not work gaps. That's not clear. I have had a real good pattern from Family Circle Easy Knitting years ago which I am trying to locate, and it is very clear. I would not use this Classy Sock pattern as it is not written very well."
You are very rude. If you don't like the pattern then don't use it. This person was kind enough to post their pattern at no charge. If you can't read a basic pattern then maybe you should take some knitting classes. Allyou had to do was message them and ask if they could clarify for you. Instead you had to be an ungrateful, rude,and selfish leech.
I learned to knit years ago but knitting patterns are sometimes confusing, I have more time on my hands now that I am semiretired and I use google and YouTUbe a lot to teach me some of the techniques. The slipping of stitches and then knitting them is a way to make a left leaning decrease in your sock, knitting two stitches together will give you a right leaning decrease. The first technique is called a ssk and is done like so: https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/slip-knit-ssk-2116155. There are a lot of sock patterns out there but not many for worsted wool. This looks as easy as any I have seen. The one I am currently using is : https://www.canadianliving.com/home-and-garden/knitting-and-crochet/article/a-basic-sock-pattern-you-ll-knit-again-and-again. This uses a superfine yarn and many more stitches.
I have now made 3 pairs of socks using this pattern! It is very easy and doesn’t assume you know all the knitting lingo! They come out perfect everytime!
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